Waistbands Reached the Sternum for Spring 2024 – WWD

In opposition to all odds, together with a wave of Y2K influences, a number of directional designers confirmed a number of the highest-waisted pants in in latest runway historical past. For them, low-rise doesn’t appear to be aside of the equation for now.

At Rick Owens, the present opened with radical flared pants that includes a really excessive, cinched waist, “giving an look of countless legs not seen because the modeling heydays of Nadja Auerman,” quipped WWD worldwide editor, Miles Socha. 

Loewe’s Jonathan Anderson targeted on an analogous silhouette with denims pavéd in tiny crystals that nearly reached the ribcage. “Stretching out the proportion,” the designer defined post-show. The runway set, with its towering fountain sculptures by Lynda Beglis, bolstered this concept. 

Elsewhere, tucked-in shirts emphasised hiked-up waists at Officine Générale, JordanLuca and Dries van Noten, but it surely was Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons who took the styling trick to extremes with shirts that had extra-wide, extra-long sleeves, including to the phantasm of a shortened torso. 

Out-of-the-box waist therapies additionally aided in maintaining saggy pants from dipping beneath the navel. 

At Juun.J, jackets have been inverted and tied on the waist, exaggerating the hip to hourglass proportions. A swath of olive inexperienced cloth did the identical at Burk Akyol, whereas Luca Magliano, winner of the LVMH Karl Lagerfeld Particular Jury Prize for 2023, furthered his rough-hewn, downbeat aesthetic with dangling hook and bar closures and layered belts. 

And whereas full-volume legs have been definitely the dominating pant form for spring, Anthony Vacarello continued to push for skinny variations executed in black grain de poudre at Saint Laurent. These had waists so tight they “strangled the hips of his younger fashions as they lurched ahead on shiny, high-heeled boots,” noticed Socha.


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