Haute Couture Week SS24 Debrief: Every little thing You Missed from Paris


Haute Couture Week spring-summer 2024 kicked off with a bang – sorry, bangs, as Zendaya and her new fringe precipitated a paparazzi frenzy outdoors Schiaparelli — within the French capital. It was a day of hair transformations, with J Lo chopping off her shiny glamazon locks for her personal second on Daniel Roseberry’s entrance row, and Rihanna giving a lesson in haute cap styling at Dior.

Rihanna at Dior.

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Zendaya at Schiaparelli.

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There was loads of placing magnificence on the runways too. Simone Rocha’s visitor assortment for Jean Paul Gaultier dominated social media, because of the Irish designer’s extremely photogenic takes on the provocateur’s archive: all Breton tees crafted completely from ribbons, Madonna-esque conical bras turned thorny in homage to the roses Gaultier gave to fashions backstage, and clear panniers made beautiful by way of Irish crochet twinkling with silver stones. “High fashion is historic and romantic, so it was about introducing modernity, actuality, an nearly scientific method to this challenge, to push it ahead for right now,” mentioned Rocha of grounding the “untouchable” craft within the present second

Rebooting couture for a brand new viewers was additionally on Roseberry’s thoughts as he ruminated on AI versus artisanship at Schiaparelli. Probably the most literal exemplar of his technological musings? The robotic child common from outdated motherboards and mirrors, nestled on the hip of Maggie Maurer, who memorably walked the runway in London whereas pregnant in 2022.

Jean Paul Gaultier by Simone Rocha Haute Couture SS24.

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Schiaparelli Haute Couture SS24.

Estrop/Getty Photographs

Armani Privé was proof that the distinctive items repay – actually. He dreamed up his undulating, peplummed, pastel tulle robes with crystal bodices and fabulous peacock feather-esque headwear particularly along with his elite shoppers in thoughts, after falling for the time period “Haute Couture en Jeu”, which loosely interprets as “couture is having enjoyable”. “It was time for me to be brave, to take dangers, and to most likely be rather less Armani,” he informed Vogue Runway.

Pierpaolo Piccioli and his ornate disco ball Valentino capes, elevated inky black “bare” attire, and turquoise fairytale ballgown skirts additionally leaned into the enjoyment on the coronary heart of couture. “You don’t need to really feel the burden of the method and of the handmade as a result of in the end couture is concerning the phantasm of effortlessness,” Piccioli mentioned of his method. “The method should disappear in order to not lose the magic – a magician stays a magician solely till he reveals his secrets and techniques.”

Armani Privé Haute Couture SS24.

Peter White/Getty Photographs

Valentino Haute Couture SS24.

Marc Piasecki

There was additionally a lightness to Virginie Viard’s ballet-inspired Chanel assortment. Her sugared-almond bouclé skirt fits and frothy, wedding-appropriate attire had her loyal cohort craning their necks and tapping their toes to the Kendrick Lamar soundscape, which the rapper created for the present’s accompanying movie, The Button, written and directed by Dave Free. When it got here to big-budget productions, Viard gained together with her oh-so-pretty simplicity.

Maria Grazia Chiuri likewise centered on wearability throughout the craft, with a placing Dior assortment of plain cotton and moire (a material normally employed in inside design) items impressed, partly, by Christian Dior’s 1952 La Cigale costume and his aerodynamic couture, which noticed Monsieur Dior liken panniers to airplane wings. The important thing distinction in Chiuri’s assortment propelling the home into spring-summer 2024? The elimination of any “stuffing” to permit ladies to maneuver freely. Count on to see Rihanna, who was seated entrance row, making moiré a factor.

Chanel Haute Couture SS24.

WWD/Getty Photographs

Christian Dior Haute Couture SS24.

Stephane Cardinale – Corbis/Getty Photographs

For anybody tuning in for his or her bi-annual dose of no-holds-barred fantasia, futuristic Fendi, whimsical Giambattista Valli, and punkish Viktor & Rolf fortunately obliged with awards-season worthy appears to be like befitting 2024’s main girls. The gathering we wish to see Emma Stone et al. sporting? Alaïa’s jaw-droppingly horny edit of out-out attire that had been all miraculously knitted from a single yarn. A very epic exclamation mark on the schedule.

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